Doing woodwork as I do, I do quite a bit of sharpening of chisels and plane irons and the like. For years, I did the obvious thing, use an oil stone, with a drop of 3 in 1 oil on it. It's a synthetic silicon carbide stone with a coarse side and a fine side. I never got into the mystic of natural Arkansas stones or Japanese waterstones or Tormek machines, all of which get a lot of coverage in the enthusiast press.
I just did pick up on the Scary Sharp technique. This does away with stones and recommends using sandpaper, stuck down on a piece of glass. And it works. You can get some really fine sandpaper, 600 grit and finer, often from an auto parts store. I stuck a piece of 600 grit down on a piece of glass and gave it a whirl. I lubricated the sand paper with a few drops of water. A little polishing takes all the scratches off the edge and gives it a nice shine. And the tools do cut better.
I now make three passes on a tool, once on the coarse side of the oilstone, one on the fine side of the oilstone, and the last pass on the 600 grit sandpaper. I suppose I could use a few more grades of sand paper and omit the stones completely, but I don't see the point. The 600 grit is close to stropping, which requires a thick leather pad or strop, charged with some really fine grit abrasive. Local stores up here don't carry strops or the abrasive, but they do carry sandpaper.
I have a bench grinder but I only use that for really heavy duty blade reshaping, say grinding out a nick. Or on lathe chisels which get really worn down doing lathe work.
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